Around the Bird in Eighty Ways – Why I Don’t Spend the Whole Week Making Gravy

 photo – archives

You have to hand it to Americans.  We’ve parlayed a bland, rather homely and not all that intelligent bird into the centerpiece of our Country’s biggest food event of the year.  It’s quite amazing, really.  Setting aside religious celebrations the world over, ingredient-driven festivals have been commonplace for centuries in just about all cultures.  I find this fascinating.  I can definitely relate that it’s really a human need to celebrate the comings and goings of the seasons.  Happening to select a choice offering from nature to coincide with the event is human ingenuity at its best.

Just in Italy for instance, they have festivals centered around strawberries, apricots, chestnuts, almond blossoms, olives and, of course, grapes – and, I’m just scratching the surface here.  We Americans, relative amateurs that we are, we’ve picked the humble turkey.  I know I am being slightly unfair here in not giving credit for the ingenuity of the Pilgrims and the Native Americans in their noble, albeit practical effort to source local ingredients and make a memorable meal.  Little did they know what they began.  They actually did quite the good job, didn’t they?  I still have images from grade school in my mind – and, every year when I pass the cranberry bogs on Cape Cod, I become wistful for the days at First Encounter and Plymouth.

Over the course of the 375 years since the first Thanksgiving, we Americans, adventurous and given to over-embellishing just about everything possible, have added to the main entrée just a wee bit.  Now, couldn’t that be the understatement of the year?  And now, each and every year we study, plan, test and adjust our menus and wind up with a virtual symphony of appetizers, side dishes, bread plates, desserts and various and sundry alcoholic and non-alcoholic accompaniments to compliment each phase of the meal and the day.  For some, this holiday is more than several weeks in the making.

One item for your Thanksgiving table that perhaps creates the most angst is the gravy.  Over the years, I’ve scrolled through the trial and error method and well, some years it is good and some years, eh.

This has led me on a quest to develop a gravy that is indeed worthy of the day.  I am no expert on gravy making, no I’m not.  However, since I’m getting in the mood here, I just thought I’d share some ideas of my own.  They have tended to work out in my house more often than not.

I applaud everyone who spends the better part of the week before working on their gravy, I do.  It’s a noble act of investment in an important part of the meal.  Making stock from separate parts of another bird is a good job and it makes your house smell amazing early in the week.  So, if you have time and want to do this, go ahead.

For those of us who truly feel the actual turkey part doesn’t have much inherent flavor, it’s the opportunity for the lily of the guilding sort.   But, for those of us who are not inclined or who don’t actually have the time, is there an acceptable way to make really good gravy on Thursday?

I say, yes – and here goes.   Same day gravy is dependent of course on pre-existing conditions – that is, either your own frozen chicken stock a la Ina Garten, who always has a treasure trove in her freezer, or the acceptance of a good boxed stock.  If you can accept the store bought variety, you can do this and well.  Purists may balk but I think it can be made into a fine gravy.

First, your stuffing recipe is really important (see below).  The aromatics imparted into the bird from your stuffing over the roasting period will help to flavor the meat.  I make a very basic bread stuffing but it is heavy on the herb and onion part and, I add white wine.  But, gravy is needed too – it’s really where the most flavor will come from once your meal is on the plate.

Really the most important issues for developing flavors are room in your roasting pan and the little dressings you put around your turkey as it roasts.  As I mentioned last Sunday, it’s definitely worth investing in a few choice aromatics for around the bird.   There are at least 80 iterations of gravy recipes out there and, for purposes of this post, let’s assume there can be a little party-gathering of 80 on the bottom of your roaster. (I thought Around the Bird in 80 Ways sounded kinda fun – so I went with it.)  Cooking out the flour taste is absolutely key and here is why the ancillary flavors you impart in the roasting process are really important.

A visit to your Farmer’s Market is in order here if at all possible.  Many are open through this week.  Select the freshest looking herbs and aromatics.  These will always be fresher than your local grocery store.  I for one love to see a huge bin full of fresh cranberries and stacks and stacks of brussels sprouts still on their stalks.  There are squashes of every variety and all the other root vegetables.  A cool and crisp day’s visit is a huge treat and great motivation.  I always have a cup of hot cider as I walk around.  You may see me lurking about in the produce section of Eataly, too.  I am always there ogling – particularly the wide variety of citrus.

Before you begin, remember you are trying to compliment the turkey here, not develop an over-the-top flavor profile that takes over the plate.  This is a delicate balancing act.  So, be wise and work and taste accordingly.  If your gravy becomes too flavor-forward, thin it down with a little more stock until it is softer.  You can eliminate the apple notes and the porcinis if you want the gravy to be more toned-down.

List of ingredients to put around the bird – here I’m targeting up to a 16 lb bird.

First, the non-negotiables):

1. baby carrots, 6-8
2. cipolini onions – 8-10 and shallots- 4 medium; garlic, only if you like – I do  not
3. celery – 2 ribs with tops
4. fresh herbs: sage, rosemary, thyme, a large bunch of each
5. for the gravy-making after roasting: a clear liquid of your choice – apple cider and chicken stock in a ratio of 1:4  1-2 boxes of stock depending on the size of your bird and how much leftover gravy you want to have (always use low-sodium stock and buy organic if possible)
6. black peppercorns – this is how you get to the “80” count

 lady apples – found at Kings in Short Hills (3rd try)

Negotiables:

1. leeks
2. apple cider
3. lady apples
4. fresh fennel
5. dried porcini mushrooms – soaked in hot stock
6. juniper berries
7. figs
8. clementines and or meyer lemons
9. bay leaves
10. dry sherry

You can use any combination of the above items you want – and of course, add in whatever else you like.  It’s really hard to go wrong.  Just as you would with any recipe, pick complimentary flavors, not fighting ones.  Some items go in the pan in the beginning, some are for finishing.  The absolutely non-negotiables are the onions, carrots, celery, herbs and peppercorns.

Same day gravy is pretty easy, really.  We are operating under the basic tenets of developing a good pan sauce here, right?  So, the degree to which you can develop a good fond is key.  Honestly, you can play around with the ingredients here quite liberally and come out with something dreamy.

I don’t like thin gravy.  I like it to be the texture of say, a thick, heavy cream.  It should have the viscosity of a well-reduced pan sauce when it’s ready to be luxuriously ladled onto your breast meat, mashed potatoes and all other accoutrements on your plate.  And, it should be headily fragrant and well-seasoned – and it should be hot, not cold – see below.  Don’t skimp on salt.  I don’t salt my turkey in advance.  This may be heretical but I don’t.  If you disagree, salt the empty cavity or massage a good butter, salt, herb mix under the skin a la Martha Stewart.   If your pan is loaded up as I’ve described, I don’t think this is necessary.

Your turkey should come out of the oven at least 30 minutes before carving, 45 minutes is better.  This is the time to go to work on the gravy.

The thickener of choice is here for me is all-purpose flour.  The only other thickener I’d use is potato starch –  if you like and you want gluten-free gravy.

Let me just say here that a really good roasting pan is so important here.  I picked up a very large All-Clad roaster in TJMaxx many years ago.  If you surf the Home Goods or TJX near you at this time of year you may come up with some very nice treasures.  They usually have a collection of All-Clad and other high-end cooking equipment like Le Creuset and even Mauviel.  Here you can pick up 1-2 8 cup Pyrex pitchers which are very handy.  You might even find some great Christmas gifts, too.  I’ve seen All-Clad Waffle Makers and Mauviel Copper pans.  (If only I had more storage!)   If you’re like me you’ll have to resist the temptation to hoard.  Anyway, if you are going to work on a good gravy, I recommend you do not use one of those disposable aluminum pans from the grocery store.  You need a good heavy-bottomed roasting pan to stir about in for awhile and you don’t want any scorching.

Instructions for roasting the bird.

1. Stuff your turkey with your favorite stuffing.  Tuck wings under, close off the opening with a slice of stale bread and tie the legs with butcher’s twine.
2. Set the bird into the pan.  I prefer to have the bird on the bottom of the pan.  You can use a rack if you want to.
3. Arrange the carrots, celery, onions, shallots, lady apples, et al and your choice of other aromatics around the bird.
4. Place one cup chicken stock and 1/4 cup apple cider in the bottom of the pan (or 1 1/4 cups if you are not using apple cider.  Roast the bird according to instructions for a stuffed bird, allowing 30-60 minutes at the end before you actually sit down.  Add more liquid as needed during the roasting period.

Instructions for gravy-making:

1. Remove the turkey from your roaster and cover it with aluminum foil and set aside to rest.
2. Remove the aromatics.   Scrape all fond off the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.
3. Pour pan drippings out of the pan and through a strainer into a large container, preferably with a spout.  A large 8 cup pyrex pitcher or fat separator is good for this.  Remove as much of the fat as possible and set aside.  (or you can try to skim the fat from the roaster with a spoon if you want to do it this way.
4. Return the strained liquid to the roasting pan and set it atop the stove.
5. In another large pyrex pitcher, whisk together 8 tbsp flour and 8 cups of cold chicken stock.  Whisk until there are no lumps.  If there are any stubborn ones, strain this liquid.  With the stove burners under the pan (1-2 depending on the size of your roaster and the juxtaposition of the burners on your cook top) re-warm the drippings until moderately hot.  Pour about half the flour-stock mixture into the pan and stir with a wooden spoon.  Bring the heat up until the mixture begins to boil and thicken.  Cook until the liquid is reduced and begins to darken slightly. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon.   Add more of the flour-stock liquid and continue to cook – mixture should be at a simmer to low boil – not too high.  Taste the gravy and add salt to taste.  Cook until the mixture is reduced to the thickness you desire.  This will take 10-15 minutes at least.  Taste.  Add in the porcini mushroom liquid, if using.  Reduce again.  At this point you can add in a nice splash of sherry if desired.  Do this according to taste.  All you want is a nice back-note here, not a sherry-tasting gravy.
6. It is imperative that you keep your gravy warm.  Fill your gravy boats with hot water while you are working, like you would a tea pot, and, after you are finished developing your gravy, pour it back into the pyrex pitcher and set it in a bath of hot water while you sit down.  You can refill your gravy boats from here.

My Stuffing Recipe – adapted from my Mom (for about 12-15 lb bird):

1 stick salted butter

1 large onion, chopped fine at least 1 1/2 cups

2-3 large stalks celery, chopped fine

1 tbsp Bell’s Poultry Seasoning – always buy a fresh box (this aroma in and of itself sends me right back to my Mom’s kitchen)

1 rounded teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

scant 1 tsp fine sea salt

6-8 cups dried (stale) bread cubes, toasted brioche or challah is great – seasoned with fine herbs (chopped fresh rosemary, thyme and sage)

1/2 – 3/4 cup dry white wine, warmed – more if needed

In a 12″ skillet on medium low heat, melt the butter.  Add the onion and sauté until softened slightly.  Add the celery, salt, pepper and the Bell’s seasoning. Sauté until celery is slightly softened.   Transfer mixture to a large bowl containing the bread cubes to which a big handful of chopped fresh rosemary, thyme and sage have been added (about 1/2 cup packed herbs).  Pour the butter, onion and celery mixture over the bread cubes.  Stir gently with a wooden spoon.  Pour the warmed white wine over and mix again.  Stuff the bird with this mixture JUST before it goes into the oven.  NEVER put a warm stuffing in a cold bird ahead of time!

Well, those are my thoughts on gravy making on the day of the event.  There are probably as many gravy making techniques as there are cooks out there.  You can use this as a guide.  Most importantly, have fun and don’t let the day’s demands in the kitchen drive you nuts.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

 my favorite turkey platter found at Summit Antiques – it’s from England, but they sort-of inspired the holiday anyway, now didn’t they?

 thank you to Frances Palmer for this gorgeous bouquet – pop out and pick up some Dahlias from your local florist or at the Farmer’s Market and go to town!

Comments from Ryan yesterday after the annual discussion of the options for dessert:  Ryan: When are you making the pies?  Me: Thursday morning, why?  Ryan:  Just checking.  Me:  I never make my pies in advance.  Ryan:  Good.  I hate the crust if it’s not the same day.  (This is the grandson of his Grandfather – Mr. Uber-acute palate himself.  So, Dad, if you’re listening up there, you can be proud, your sensibilities live on and continue to “coach” me in the kitchen.)