ready for hanging
How does one make a December to Remember? I mean, in a good way.
If I had one wish to be granted for Christmas, (aside from having my Mom back, my daily wish) it would be to have my paternal Grandmother’s recipes hand-delivered from heaven to me on Christmas morning. Now, that would be incredibly powerful and serve to end the decades-long effort to recreate her specialties – those that I remember with such devotion and yearn for to this very day.
All of a sudden, less than one week after the crunch of Thanksgiving in the kitchen, it is December 2 and all of the most evocative impulses come flooding in. All of a sudden, I want to crush candy canes, tie red ribbons and wreaths everywhere and stud a bowl of oranges with cloves.
There is a way to enjoy the month of December that doesn’t involve Black Fridays, Cyber Mondays, buying copious numbers of wide-screen tvs that you don’t need, and shopping online in a panic all day long – thereby ruining all the good stuff there is to absorb from this month of seasonal spirit. You can choose to envelop yourself in the kitchen and, retreat into a magical world of memories, fragrances, creativity and baking.
December arrives every year with an unmistakable set of traditions at the ready – and a yearning to bake, bake and bake. As we settle into the darkest month of the year and days continue to get shorter for another three weeks, we move to the kitchen for solace, filling up and nestling in warm memories. Well, at least, I do.
I confess it really began for me last week as I drove up Hudson Street and passed the first, for me, flat bed tractor trailer loaded with Christmas trees. Even though the windows were all closed in my car, the scent of evergreen permeated through and stayed with me for several moments afterward, sending me into that annual retreat to places where only that particular sensory aroma – fresh cut pine, will do.
It is inevitable that I return to my favorite memories of childhood during these weeks – and they involve 2 VSPs. My Mom and my paternal Grandmother were the absolute best cooks I knew when I was a child. I spent countless hours enjoying the fruits of their ovens, both savory and sweet. They are the absolute foundation of my ties to the kitchen and I return often to the visual memories of them working in theirs.
the busiest page in this, my Mom’s most-used cookbook, circa 1942
My Mom had an annual ritual around cookie baking which included, among others: Vanilla Rolled Cookies from the Woman’s Home Companion Cook Book, circa 1942 – multiple batches (see above) Spritz, Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal, Ginger Snaps, Peanut Butter, plus those Hershey Kisses version, and on and on.
My absolute favorite cookie from my Grandmother was her Taralli, followed closely by her ribbons and Struffoli (closely followed by my Father’s Aunt Madeline Primavera’s). While my Mom’s cookies were distinctly contemporary, and from her time, my Grandmother’s held a different aura. Both were magical to eat, but my Grandmother’s were distinct, and always perfectly executed. Her taralli were hard, but in a good way and delicately flavored with anise. Her ribbons and Struffoli were tender and drizzled with fragrant honey and I can see and smell them to this very day.
If you don’t have your own dog-eared book filled with recipes from the past, you can turn to other archives, and begin here. There are a number of highly respected Italian-American cooks and bakers that I follow and you can cull some pretty great recipes from their repertoires.
http://www.today.com/food/lidia-bastianichs-favorite-cookies-fried-ribbon-more-1D80359695
http://michelescicolone.com/candied-orange-peel/
http://www.saveur.com/gallery/Italian-American-Christmas-Cookies?image=0
I like to settle in to read some really unique pieces in December. Yes, there are a few cookbooks I have ordered – I can’t help myself. But, at this time of year, I typically look for older pieces that evoke memories and mental images that remind me of the past.
If you are an epicurean historian of sorts, as I am, Carol Field has a wonderful summary of Christmas in Rome in her book Celebrating Italy. It is a wonderful book and would be a great gift for someone you love. You can find copies on Amazon or take a look in your favorite used bookstore. I am also gaga about François Payard’s new cookie book! This would be a great gift for anyone who loves baking cookies! And, yesterday, Katie Parla published an updated version of her Where to Eat in Rome during the holidays, which if you are traveling there, as I wish I were, you can select great places to dine.
Well, anyway, I spent most of the day yesterday thinking about cookie-baking and am seriously thinking of experimenting this year and trying to turn out some new favorites. But, there will always be the classics for me, too. I am particularly into candied ginger, orange, lemon and grapefruit peels, and spices this year. Cardamom seems to be on my mind a lot and I will be making my Cardamom-Hazelnut Crescents again as gifts for friends. And, I will make David Lebovitz’s Fresh Ginger Cake, which is a must – http://www.foodlibrarian.com/2010/05/david-lebovitzs-fresh-ginger-cake.html
If you look on my Facebook page, In Food Today, you will find a panoply of recipes that I have combed from the internet – all seem very worth a try to me. This is where you’ll find me when I am not outside snapping or in the City. Take a look and have fun experimenting. I will try to offer a good mix of traditional goodies and unique new ideas.
I am going to try some new toffees, brittles and barks too: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/10/08/brittle-recipe_n_4058935.html
http://www.healthylivingmarket.com/recipes/mixed-nut-and-seed-brittle/http://www.healthylivingmarket.com/recipes/mixed-nut-and-seed-brittle/
http://honestlyyum.com/6670/spiced-pumpkin-seed-brittle/http://honestlyyum.com/6670/spiced-pumpkin-seed-brittle/
And, I am going to experiment with the concept of Sugar Plums this year. I have been looking into the history of Sugar Plums and trying to decipher what the very best offering of the term, one that evokes a magical image in my head, just might be. Stay posted.
This year, I hope to have a peaceful month of December, contemplating often the real spirit of the season. I hope to avoid the mall at all costs and make as many trips into New York City to walk, browse and enjoy, not to shop necessarily. I hope to patronize small, independent shops and get to know more vendors at the open markets. I hope to snap as many unique pictures of the season as possible, taking in all that nature has to offer at this time of year.
BTW, today’s NYT Food Section is a good one – worth the price of the paper, if you don’t already get it.
My favorite item I’ve spied so far though? These, from Barney’s New York. www.barneys.com
peppermint and white chocolate stirrers <3
Might we try to make some?
So, I hope the next three weeks are fun for you. Try some new ideas of your own this year!