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Did Someone Say Romans? A Visit to Arles

October 22, 2015 by marianne

IMG_5760 Did someone say Romans?

Time is getting away from me now and so, I should hurry up and finish my posts from our trip before I completely forget what happened there.  It is the 22nd of October already…..

When in France and especially around Paris, it is easy for someone with a head-of-the-pin-sized focus-orientation to keep in perspective that the entire world didn’t begin around the period of Barron Haussmann and his dramatic re-vamping of the visual and physical infrastructure of Paris.  Perhaps this is at least partly a major consequence of my elementary school education curriculum where we spent an inordinate amount of time on US History and what was going on around the world from the time of our own Country’s beginning.  Remembering that we were frighteningly close to the end of WWII when I was born, I can see now how everyone’s vision continued to be skewed in that direction as well.  It is easy to see how recent traumas configure perspective.  9/11 would be ours nowadays.

Real world history seemed to be in the background back then (those 1960s) and, honestly, as time went on it seemed like in-depth study of cultures other than our own were more or less relegated to relative insignificance, where you had to elect to “go there” on your own if you really wanted to know.   Yes, we had our intros to Western Civ and breezed through Tutankhamun, the Pharaohs and the Pyramids and touched on eastern Asian cultures, but honestly, we were somewhat the victims of a myopic viewpoint on what was important in the “whole” world.  One might just come away with the belief that all the important stuff happened when Christopher Columbus “discovered” America.  We know how that turned out, don’t we?

Today, unless you have a particular penchant for the world of ancient cultures, languages and the trails and trials of global marauders and their influence, you might just be willing to sit comfortably in the world of the 1800s and forward.  A few more of us are obsessed with the Renaissance.

Imagine how exhilarating it is then, unless of course your are in say, Rome or Athens, to gaze up at the remnants of the structures of those most famous of marauders throughout the continent(s).  Perhaps marauding isn’t quite the right word, but I can’t think of a better one…….

roman-empire  Roman Empire courtesy biblestudy.org
The outgrowth of this perspective however, could just be that we contemporary centurions, at least those in my particular age group, think we should seek and find all the great places to explore which were coalesced in the post-war periods of the 20th centuries.  It’s really quite amusing.

IMG_5795

Those Romans, though, you’ve got to hand it to them.

As the weather took a strikingly deadly turn, with thunder and lightning that we never saw in our area of the east coast of the US all summer long, we struck out (get it?) for trying our hand at combing a few of the outskirts of Aix, starting in Arles.

When I am in Europe, I find myself adding to the list of regrets about college major selection.  My BS in Finance certainly doesn’t really seem like a very interesting choice any longer.  I find myself adding to the contemporary list: Italian Studies (including language), Food Culture, French Studies (including language), European History, Creative Writing, Photography, Art History…….  When I am finished with all of those, I’m sure I will have more additions.  Just the other day again, I was regretting declining enrollment at NYU last year – my son said, just re-apply, Mom.  But, where do you re-apply to extend your life expectancy?  I’m still working on that one.

On Saturday October 3, in spite of the rain, and with the lightning streaking downward all around us, we set out for the town of Arles.  Of course, this town is mostly known these days as the last home of Vincent Van Gogh, and as the place where he happily and quickly completed about 300 very famous canvases, the ones which we tend to associate him with.  Apparently he was very happy here, and then descended quickly into his untimely demise.

When we  arrived, we had to seek shelter in a cafe and amused ourselves with a cup of tea as a tinge of blue sky began to peak through.  How lucky were we – because this is indeed a very charming town.

IMG_5803 artful arrangement

The Roman ruins here are really quite amazing and we concentrated on visiting the forum and, like in Rome, imagining who imagined, designed and built these structures and then, who played in them.

Arles is really a distinctively lovely town and we enjoyed both the ancient ruins and the more contemporary shops and strolling about.  For me, it is really fun to imagine that people live in this very old place in their contemporary lives.  This is one of the big juxtapositions that always floor me when I travel abroad.  Everything is so “new” in the US and our lifestyles are so structured around new surroundings, roads, towns, infrastructure, attractions.  Living in a house that was built in 1850 is considered “old” in my neck of the woods in NJ.  In New York, they seem so hell-bent on tearing everything down and starting over – as if they can do a better job.  Don’t get me started on that.

Anyway, here are some of my shots of Arles.  You can see why Van Gogh and the Romans were attracted here, though the latter because of its proximity to the sea and paramount location.  Harken back to 123 BC and consider your strategery. (yes, that’s a word – and, one I am surprised to find is so “new”).  This was named a UNESCO site in 1981.  (Hello, what took you so long?)

IMG_5771 IMG_5776 IMG_5782  IMG_5792 IMG_5797 IMG_5795 IMG_5800 IMG_5804 repurposing amphitheaters for today’s uses (I’m starting to get around: Rome, Taormina and Arles #3amphitheaters :))

IMG_5805 IMG_5817 IMG_5819 IMG_5806 IMG_5816 IMG_5824 IMG_5825 famous red roofs

IMG_5826 IMG_5835 IMG_5837 IMG_5842 IMG_5844 IMG_5846 IMG_5848 IMG_5851  there is really quite a lot to see here and it is really gorgeous – almost hauntingly beautiful; sorry we didn’t get to the actual tour of Van Gogh’s favorite spots

IMG_5853 here is a tribute to Van Gogh’s garden – not especially impressive; maybe it was the time of year

The town, with its ancient underpinnings and entirely rustic charm has, quite tastefully evolved into a lovely hamlet where one could easily settle in.  There is really quite a lot to enjoy here, as Van Gogh obviously did.   A visit here whets the appetite for further exploration.  🙂

 

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