“can’t top these” yellow peaches from Tree-licious Orchards in Port Murray, NJ
Ever since I read Sam Sifton’s article in the Sunday Times Magazine back on July 8, http://www.nytimes.com/2015/07/12/magazine/eat-a-peach.html I have been informally but determinedly been out racking up evidence against some of his conclusions about northeastern peaches. I guess it’s just part of this old-fashioned Jersey girl defending her turf!
I have gone picking at Melick’s in Califon, where I documented for myself the beauty and the bounty. I’ve been traveling around and ogling peaches everywhere, and doing a fair amount of tasting. I guess he got my Irish up when I read his denunciation of northeastern peaches as late season and “for most of us, a truly great peach is a rare event”.
Today I’m prepared to formally declare “not so, and especially not this year!” (Tomato yields are great, too – but that’s a story for another day.) There have been a lot of articles about how the drought in California has actually resulted in great stone fruit crops this year. http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2015/07/sweet-fruit-makes-drought-go-down-easier Then, when I listen to CNBC, I become puzzled about reports of a bad year for farmers in the US – and this is because the supply of a lot of crops is very high, thereby driving down prices. Oh, the irony!
For the “eating class” (that’s us), this indeed is good news. And, incidentally, if you too are a bonafide peach fanatic, like I am, Sam Sifton’s article may have been just a tad early, too. For, this year, I’d say that local peaches are really at their peak and right now! Just take a look at those photos I just snapped in my kitchen – yes, August 23rd. They are truly amazing, and right now!
It’s no secret that I obsess over peaches and peach season. I jealously and hawkishly watch the season unfold incredibly early in California each year. This year seems to have been especially wonderful as the supply of peaches is bountiful and they are darned great. What’s really amazing is how protective and proud peach growers are of their crops. On the west coast, I follow the noble efforts of David Masumoto and his family. There are many stellar growers in California. http://www.growingproduce.com/fruits/stone-fruit/2014-top-stone-fruit-growers/ that are worth reading up on.
On Friday, I spent a lovely hour or so transversing the Union Square Farmer’s Market. It was a refreshing respite from the usual Saturday visit, where the place is teeming with people and lots of dogs (not that I mind the dogs, btw). When it’s very crowded, it’s harder to get a chance to really observe the offerings up close and for as much time as you’d like to, because at least one person is waiting for you to select and move along so they can have their turn.
After I had one turn at all of the vendors, I began to focus in on where I would purchase my peaches. I engaged in the requisite sniffing, looking at the size and picking up to weigh, in order to spot those which promised more. You want a peach which is heavy for its size, not light. Finally, I engaged in a conversation with a lovely older gentleman who was manning the cash register, from western Jersey’s Tree-licious Orchards who informed me that he had the best peaches in the market if not in all of New Jersey. I’m sure there could possibly be a great deal of debate about this declaration, but I’m willing to put this out there for testing.
He told me he had been trying to get into the Morristown Farmer’s Market for awhile and hadn’t been able to. He intended to keep on trying, he said. I’d guess this gentleman was well into at least well into his seventies. Such is the passion of these farmers. While I assume him to have been Ed Kesler, proprietor of the family farm, I can’t say for sure (someone was waiting behind me to check out). Perhaps I’ll go back and do a proper interview with him next Friday. In any event, it was a delightful conversation and I came home with a large bag of yellow peaches to perform the test with. While I generally like to let my peaches continue to ripen on the counter until they are “just right”, my husband grabbed one after dinner and declared that they were indeed “excellent”.
As I considered all I could do today with this supply, I began my usual mental sorting-over culinary words. In my crazy mixed-up mind, there are certain words or groups of words that seem to speak to me. (In spite of my strictly Italian heritage, I have to confess, the words seem to mostly be in French.) Many of them are culinary words, but not exclusively. This morning, as I was fooling around, reading yet another cookbook in my collection marked “unread” and I came upon Casare Casella’s recipe for “Insalata di Pesche”. Now, those words are just plain musical, at least to me.
There are just about a million things you can do with those great peaches right now (including freezing as many as you possibly can). They present beautifully in every culinary genré – from drinks to dessert, from dawn until dusk. But often, the simplest preparations and eating experiences are the best. While I fully intend to just inhale this one over the sink in about 5 minutes, you can drizzle it with honey, place a dollop of plain yogurt over and crumble some sliced almonds on top for breakfast – nirvana! Is there any better Summertime breakfast?
Any manner of salads and luncheons are great – today, while those tomatoes are downright amazing – see my photos of the heirlooms from Wightman’s on fb, you can sub in a peach for any tomato in any recipe, as far as I can see. I particularly love peaches with roasted beets and gorgonzola or goat cheese with a sherry vinegrette …. yum!
Desserts are “cosmic” as Ryan would say. Pies, crumbles, parfaits, turnovers, ice creams, mousses, tarts, and on and on and on…… (try David Lebovitz’s Ginger Ice Cream with peaches <3)
I love fruit together with meats. Peaches go great with chicken, pork and duck. And, make a fresh peach salsa for serving over any seafood selection you can imagine.
I realize some of this is redundant from my other peach posts, but honestly, it’s time to partake in any and all, before it’s too late – and that would be in just a few weeks……… Can I jiggle and jog you into action?
As Mr. Kesler told me on Friday, there are only about three weeks left of peach picking season in New Jersey, depending on the rains. So, whatever you do, don’t delay!
Here is Casare Casella’s original recipe from his book, “True Tuscan”. I’d say, make this and serve, drained, over baby arugula and grilled chicken or fish. You can either omit the sugar or replace it with honey. You can double up on the herbs. Personally, I’d add a drizzle of your very best aged balsamic vinegar on top just before serving! Or, serve over homemade vanilla ice cream! I can think of a couple of hundred other things to do with this, too!
Casare Casella’s Insalata di Pesche – serves 3 to 4 (courtesy Casare Casella)
3 cups white wine, red wine or champagne
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 lemon verbena leaves or mint sprigs
4 1/2 cups thinly sliced peaches
- Combine the wine, orange juice, sugar, lemon juice and lemon verbena or mint in a saucepan, bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
- Put the peaches in a large bowl. Pour the marinade over them and mix well. Place the bowl in the refrigerator and marinate for at least 3 hours but no longer than 24 hours. Any leftover peach salad will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for a few days.
You might like to visit my new Facebook page, “In Season, On Assignment with Marianne Hanley”, where I have begun to chronicle my adventures at my favorite food venues, both near and far. You can enjoy a panoply of photos there. It’s where I claimed, on Friday, that Union Square is the “best shopping in NYC” – and I do mean best – watch out Bergdorff’s. Square foot for square foot, there’s no place better, for anything! Plus, it’s where I met and chatted with Alice Waters :)! BTW, she’ll be in New York, chatting with Sam Sifton in October at a NYT forum. Get your tickets now. I have mine……..
it’s lunch
bonafide Peach Fuzz