my 2 favorite shots from Melick’s last year – camera is ready and waiting for this year’s outing
Just in case this dastardly, distasteful humid air mass that was found rolling in this morning has the potential of sapping you of your inspiration, here’s just a little reminder/invigorator-post for you to keep you going……..
Yesterday, in the early afternoon I set off for Califon, NJ to Melick’s Town Farm Orchards for my annual u-pick and u-photo jamboree. I was elated as I trundled on down the road, cameras in tow – that was until I made it to the center of Bernardsville and a light rain began. Today, sadly, is looking even worse……..
Over the years the phrase, “Say it with flowers” has become a way of life and a very respectable advertising campaign on behalf of flower growers and marketers. It just hits the nail on the head doesn’t it? As it happened, when I was in Kings yesterday afternoon, I happened to watch a man spend a good 10 minutes trying to select two bouquets for, obviously, a special someone. It was a gesture I found charming and unusual – I find most men don’t dilly-dally over their selection – they usually grab the first bouquet they see that looks good to them and mostly it’s the red roses variety. This was different. Anyway, I enjoyed watching…….but I digress.
Today, I am going to employ this phraseology to the star of the show of summer fruits, in my book anyway, of course it’s Peaches.
On Sunday, I found myself filling with a tinge of ire as I read Sam Sifton’s piece in the Sunday Times Magazine about Peach Pie. http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017525-perfect-peach-pie It’s his opinion that you have to live in Georgia or South Carolina to find the best eating peaches. He barely mentions California peaches – huh? And he professes that NJ and Long Island Peaches come in too late. I beg to differ and sent him a note in this regard. Just another person who will think I’m a nut-case, (or a stone-case —- never mind).
First of all, I consider California peaches to be the best. I prefer white. They have more floral overtones than yellow, and a lovely, long season – but I’m happy to eat any and all. California peaches come into market, and did particularly-so this year, on the earlier side of the season and linger on so nicely. I find them to be wonderful – absolutely no complaints here. “Southern” peaches, as they are known in these parts, tend to be picked too early, often arrive green and hard as rocks as do some local peaches, and in my experience, are often candidates for that disturbing tendency toward developing into a mealy mess. But, last year, my trip to Melick’s yielded the most gorgeous peaches ever – and I always take the opportunity to reassure myself that NJ still has evidence of being the “Garden State”. (btw, my local friends – the early corn at Wightman’s is awesome! had my first ear of white corn from there on Sunday – was so tender and sweet, it threw me)
Now, let’s be honest. In my experience, you don’t find “eat off the tree” ripe peaches in supermarkets. Farmer’s Markets may yield better results. Just about all selections yield best results when they have a sit on the counter for at least a day or two. When the fragrance comes to it’s peak, I’m ready to pounce, and yes, I prefer my peaches just on the cusp of overripe.
A great peach is a gift for all time, something to savor, even slobber over. And, in the depths of Winter, this is the fruit I imagine more than any other. I try to keep some frozen in storage for all sorts of emergencies, if for no other reason to assure myself that there is indeed a season when these prizes do really grow out of doors on living trees.
photo courtesy New York Times
This morning, I was inspired by Melissa Clark’s feature in the Wednesday food section – A Little Heat Balances the Sweet. http://www.nytimes.com/2015/07/15/dining/a-fruit-salad-both-sweet-and-spicy.html?ref=todayspaper&_r=0 The recipe is for a fruit salad, uplifted with a little star anise, serrano chile and herbs. I like the idea and would do a little bit of improvising myself – like skip the sugar, and crumble in a bit of cheese. A prosecco-based dressing would be better than sugar syrup which I have to say I find superfluous in just about all cases with fruit. Or just a sprinkle of lemon or lime juice will do. If you must add a “sweetener” mine would have to be the tiniest drizzle of honey.
Anyway, the point of this post is to illustrate how wonderfully employable a great peach could be to every single meal and dish imaginable. Really? Let’s test that.
Sampling:
Breakfast: purely alone, eaten with chin over the sink – nirvana, with plain yogurt, a drizzle of honey and some toasted almonds, in any baked breakfast good you can imagine – can you say scone?
Lunch: piggy-backing off my favorite Gazpacho from Straight Wharf Restaurant on Nantucket – http://straightwharfrestaurant.com/menus/lunch/, let’s sub in peaches – a la Daniel Humm:
http://www.chow.com/recipes/28867-daniel-humms-peach-gazpacho-with-toasted-almonds
Salad – Roasted Beets, Peaches, Goat or Gorgonzola and Toasted Pignolis, any day……
Pizza, accompanying herbs, meats, – basically anything you would put a tomato in you can put a peach in
Cocktails: we all know of the divine pleasures of white peach nectar a la Harry’s Bar……… need I say more? I will…… add peaches to, of course, Sangria, a glass of Red Wine for dessert, with just about any vodka, gin or watermelon-peach puree……… go ahead, go crazy………
so homesick for here – Prosciutto is a great match-up for peaches – this salty-sweet match is divine
Appetizers: the amazing prosciutto from Grand Hotel Tremezzo shown above – instead of melon, choose peaches
this appetizer was intended for peaches – only I used them all in the pie I made that afternoon – peach wedge, a dab of goat cheese, fresh basil pesto and toasted pignolis……sprinkle with sea salt
Skewers: all fruit or roast with meats, fish or veggies
Salsas, compotes, jams, marinades, bbq sauces, chutneys
photo courtesy Jean-Georges
And, the prize recipe goes to the brilliant Jean-Georges: https://www.jean-georges.com/recipes/summer/shrimp-with-peach-cocktail-sauce/
My own chicken and peaches:
http://www.kitchen-inspirational.com/2012/07/18/grilled-chicken-with-marinated-goat-cheese-and-grilled-chicken/ – feel free to sub in your favorite protein
Dessert? Well, you know – you can go ahead and use Sam Sifton’s recipe from Sunday for a great peach pie: http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017525-perfect-peach-pie
but there are croustades, cobblers, parfaits, ice creams – last week David Lebovitz was making his Ginger Ice Cream – throw in a bunch of your favorite peaches – and, maybe some Lemon Verbena…….
photo courtesy David Lebovitz – aka “to die for” (treat yourself to a copy of “The Perfect Scoop”. http://savorysaltysweet.com/2011/03/02/fresh-ginger-ice-cream/ I mean, doesn’t this photo just get you?
gelato, ices/granitas, galettes (last night watched Leslie Mackie make her Raspberry-Fig Galette on a rerun of Baking with Julia. Sub in Peaches – of course – the crust of toasted sesame seeds and toasted almonds with skins looked great!
Ok, so that’s my story for this morning……. Let’s keep perfectly cool – and go ahead, have a good slobber over the sink today (no one will see you) ……..and keep those peaches coming for a long, long while……… at least until I’m throwing on a cashmere sweater and my fav Honeycrisp apples come in…….. Have a lovely day!
