photo courtesy NYT
In the print world, it’s all about survival, right? Question is, can one increase one’s chances of survival by publishing the same hard copy stories you uploaded to the internet several days earlier? Am I missing something here????
Last week, I wrote the following critique of the NYT Dining Editorial Board and then put it in my “pause” file. I got to wondering what might be going on there. I was dismayed. Then I found this morning that Melissa Clark’s recipe for Cornmeal Plum Scones was published on their website 5 days ago. This actually made me transition from confusion to another realm of wonder. Why would I buy a hardcopy newspaper if I could read its content, in this case, 5 days earlier, on the internet? The “When Chicken Fingers Come Off the Menu” story was published three days ago on the internet. A Fiesty Vegetable That Can Take A Punch was published 5 days ago. It made me think there was something deeply awry – like in the Secret Service. Hmmmm – not that one is as serious as the other, but, um, come on.! I decided to resurrect my story.
Today’s cover story is about Craft Popcorn. Ok. Breaking News in the Culinary world? (you can see that I’ve got my Irish up). Here is my story from last week:
Maybe I’m just barking up the wrong tree (another of those classic quips my Mom used).
I still look forward to Wednesdays and running out the door to get my New York Times. This may, in and of itself, be a clue to the faulty footings upon which this post stands. Yes, I am of the Dinosaurian-vintage that still reads a hard-copy newspaper (3) every day.
In the case of Wednesdays, I still love the anticipation of the Dining Section – will they have a spectacular recipe – a “must make”, an innovative flavor combo that I can apply to a different recipe idea I have? Or, a review of the best new, most charming or enduring restaurant that I absolutely can’t wait to try? Or some brilliant insights into the current world of food culture?
I may be committing the worst of sins here but I’m going to go out on a limb and ask a simple question. Premise: The New York Times is the preeminent newspaper in the world. Perhaps it is the last-standing bastion of print journalism. At least I know people are still known to celebrate wildly if they get mentioned, if not featured here. That may run the gamut from political and religious terrorists to the winner of the Nobel, Pulitzer and Pritzker prizes to the most cutting edge Chef in the world. Question: Does their Dining Section reflect this standard?
You have heard me moan about the demise of Gourmet Magazine on more than one occasion. Opinions may run the gamut around what condition it was in at the end. But, I still miss it. It attempted if not succeeded, in taking me to new places, introducing me to new flavors, and who was formulating the most brilliant of new cuisine.
I spend most of my days searching around for food brilliance. This may involve picking up a lone chestnut on the street, which then sends me off in search of recipes with Chestnut flour, to being introduced to a cuisine from a culture I’ve never heard of before. I think I have a fair “palate” in this regard. I may not be an expert in every cuisine on earth, nor have I been to every venue available, but I think I know a little. I think I have an eye for flavor combiners, inventors and separating fluff from substance. This is all, of course, highly debatable. But, even if I don’t know what’s inspiring if not good, I think I know where high quality resides. And so, as regards my premise and question, above, I’m at a loss here.
I took a look at the Dining Section today and asked myself the question, “who is the target audience here?” When I was in 8th grade we made Baked Alaska in my Home Ec class for goodness sake. A spatchcocked chicken claims the entire front cover of the section. Inside there are big articles on 3 ingredient dishes, cooking in hot fat, pastry crust, how to apply physical theory to cooking, top 10 kitchen gadgets and sharp knives. Then, there is a full-page ad for the November 11-12 conference at Stone Barns on Food for Tomorrow. It is already sold out and asks if I want to be added to the waiting list. (curiously, Alice Waters is not on this panel). There is a review of a one star restaurant and an article on eating with your hands. Then there is a full page feature on basic food prep – like how to mince rosemary. Yes, I realize they are kicking off their new website and iPad app on cooking. Is this the pinnacle of food journalism?
I’m not going to belabor my point here. All I am going to say is that I am saddened that this is the condition of the New York Times Food Section. Isn’t this a place for the pinnacle of recipes, restaurants, and writing? If not, then where, who?
I think I have a pretty good understanding of what is going on in the world of journalism, especially on the print side. I have witnessed the demise of many of my all-time favorite publications. One thing I can say for sure is, you can’t be all things to all people. You can’t be Cooking 101 or Introduction to Kitchen Gadgets and at the same time be representative of the best food ideas in the World. I don’t think I am just being cranky here. I think the New York Times should be the go-to place for the cutting edge of best flavors, creative people, space design, and locales. And, I don’t think they should shoot for the middle, or the beginner cook or baker. Just my opinion. Those looking for how to cook their first chicken should look elsewhere.
Go ahead, inspire me. Please!
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And so, now I find myself for the first time actually wondering if I should cancel my subscription to the New York Times and just read it online. This is a first for me, ever. I’m going to read David Lebovitz’s October Newsletter – online: https://madmimi.com/s/baa755. That, no doubt, will inspire me.