Sojourn - Tremezzo - Gift of the Glaciers

I am greatly guilty at being one of those people who rarely takes a moment to contemplate and appreciate the results of the great conglomeration that is the forces of nature mixed together with the ingenious, part-serendipitous and part-determined outcomes of the human race that result in some of the most incredible places in the world. How people have grown and turned what nature has wrought into seats of distinction and reflection leaves me with the word magical in my head.

I may not be the biggest George Clooney fan in the world, and yet over the years the reporting of his love for this place always piqued my interest. This along with everyone else’s raving about the beauty of the glacial aftermath which so very often yields incredible results.

George (Hanley, not Clooney) and I had a running discussion about the use and true meaning of the word fjord (does it or does it not included the ravines created by the glaciers) and also how I felt that the place had a distinct Tyrolian feel to it, making it even more endearing to me. George was a stranger to the “distinct Tyrolian feel”).

Despite these little discussions about the geographical/geological characteristics and the home and leftovers of the Tyrols, I will admit here that that George Clooney fellow does indeed have great taste in homes as well as most girlfriends.

We reluctantly left Milan on Wednesday and traveled by train to Como, a charming town that we unfortunately didn’t get to spend any time in except to grab a sandwich on the way out. Next time. We decided to take a cab to Tremezzo rather than the ferry. We were quite pleased with the alternate mode of transportation as it provided a different glimpse into the towns along the way.

Let me just say that after visiting Positano last May and having the benefit of flying over the Alps a few times (but not yet staying in them – yet, yet, yet) I have become enamored with the vertical appeal of just about every venue of this country. Honestly, could it possibly be fair that one relatively small country could have so many visual masterpieces? On a historical note, I must add that it was a brilliant course of events that resulted in the addition of the northern provinces to the Italian republic and I am noting here my need to go back and read through and refresh myself about the progress of “nation-building” beginning with the Congress of Vienna in 1815. How many of us take a moment or two to return our thoughts to the days of our Ancient Civ classes and appreciate those marauding Romans and of the pivotal events following that have resulted in the country-formations and gifts available to study and enjoy since.

Well anyway, making several mental notes to make our next trip one to study and travel about the northern tier of Italy and perhaps begin in Zurich, I became infatuated with the 360 degree views around me. Who wouldn’t? This is a distinctly different terrain and almost mystical creation born of glaciers and great and profound luck.

Arriving in September is probably a mixed blessing, just missing the height of the season and yet still enjoying the agreeable weather and yet not getting to see the hustle-bustle and most cosmopolitan of peoples who travel here to enjoy and imbibe. But anyway, it presented itself with such great and alluring beauty that no one would doubt why people devote themselves to this place. The glorious array of majestic villas and surroundings is like nothing I’ve seen. Knowing that most people claim that Garda is even more beautiful I became anxious to do my very own comparison. But, enjoy this particular site we did.

I immediately fell in love with this hotel even though my first impression of the group checking in in front of us was more than a little off-putting. Let’s just say that I am not used to being surrounded by the elite of Ferrari-toting ingenues from neighboring countries. I was expecting a slightly more low-kew vibe, and in fact was happy to see that my first impressions were not indicative of the overall clientele.

While the surrounds are truly breathtaking, I also immediately fell in love with the ambience inside the hotel and especially the collection of what can only be described as the “tutti-frutti” array of velvet-covered upholstery, so charmingly selected for the spaces – especially in the bar. I knew I would never have the idea to try this nor the guts to recommend it, but I must say it was completely effective and charming in its statement and completely complementary effect to the spaces. Surprising and endearing. I’d like to meet this decorator.

at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo:

We spent our three days here hoping for a little sun-drenched respite from the time change fatigue and our busy schedule in Milan and hoping to resurge to a high level of energy before we had to head off to the next two venues of our trip. Unfortunately, the weather had its ups and downs and while we had bathing suits in tow, we didn’t get to wear them, nor soak up much of any sunshine. Even so, we did indeed drink in all that was the beauty around us from this lovely vantage point.

Room with a View:

fjords? yea or nay? never did get the one great shot of these crevices that I wanted

After a most charming first-night dinner in the hotel dining terrace, where I became smitten with this very clever and beautiful presentation of the simplest of appetizers – Prosciutto and Melon, we got a good night’s sleep and prepared to take the boat over to Bellagio in the morning.

Anyway, Bellagio sits across the lake from Tremezzo with a shining beam of light upon it, and somehow beckons you to pay a visit. Off we went on the ferry not knowing exactly what to expect. We disembarked and spent a half day exploring, in yet another highly vertical settlement of great charm and congeniality.

To say that the terrain here is the primary attraction is a complete understatement. It takes you awhile to adjust your sensibilities to appreciate just how much physical beauty has indeed been left here by the glaciers and then built upon by the inhabitants. Remnants of the geological expressions of the earth are vivid all around you………

In and around Bellagio:

reminding me achingly of Positano yet with a charm all its own: