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P is for Pork, Prosciutto and (the very essence of Salty-Sweet) Perfection

April 26, 2013 by marianne

images-11 Photo courtesy Academia-Barilla.com  images-12 *

You MUST know there is NO relationship between these two pictures in my mind!

I love little pigs.  I think they are adorable.  And, I shudder to think what happens to them as they travel along the food production chain to the place of discussion of today’s post.  I don’t see them in person very often, but when I do I spend a little time fawning over them – such is my quirky orientation in life.  (My dear Mom used to talk to all animals too!) When I see goats, cows and sheep, I “pretend” that they are all being kept for milk and pets because I can not deal with the idea that anyone could take them to any kind of demise, I am a protector at heart – they are all such lovable creatures.  Yes, I know, that is such a crazy, idealistic, and delusional idea and the very essence of denial.  But, I choose that and I’m staying there.  Sorry.  So, now on to a completely different subject.

The explosion of the world of pork and pork products has been really amazing.  People obsess over bacon like crazy!  There are restaurants, businesses, books and blogs devoted to bacon.  I even saw a cinnamon bun the other day with a piece of bacon woven in!   I confess I have not had Bacon Ice Cream yet though I would try it if it had maple in it.   Bacon’s Italian cousin, smoked uncured, Pancetta is a great staple in the kitchen – and the perfect complement and jazzer-upper for, say Brussel Sprouts.  Not to limit its qualities to jazzing-upping or anything.

I am a great fan of almost all pork (not those feet – George still slips them into my grocery cart when I am not looking and thinks it is really funny): roasts, ribs, chops and do make these often.  On a cold winter night one of my favorite things to do is slip a bone-in pork loin into the oven, covered with crushed Italian Seasoning, Salt and Pepper and just let it perfume the house – totally warm and comforting.  I like Country-Style ribs slathered with Bone-Sucking Sauce-Hot and grilled outside. And, my favorite pork chop recipe is Earl Peyroux’s Pork Chops With Apples, which is finished in a mustard sauce which is luscious, earthy and fine.  I love this recipe and have been making it for over 25 years.  The more general subject of Pork, will be saved for another day…….

I have become more interested lately in the elevation of Prosciutto to more of an everyday staple in the kitchen.  And, I love hearing them reference it on the Create Channel – Prosciutto de Parma and Prosciutto de San Daniele (san dan-YELL-EH).  The way they say San Daniele makes it sound so far away and dreamy.  I know, but such is the effect these things have on me.

Prosciutto is a well-protected tradition and a very selectively cared for and guarded product. There are whole societies devoted to it.  Let me just say that there is no such thing as “domestic” prosciutto, unless of course you live in Italy- so don’t let anyone tell you or sell you.  The most famous of Italy’s prosciutto comes from central and northern Italy, focusing in on Parma, and San Daniele in Friuli-Venezia.

The art of making Prosciutto goes back to Roman times and shows up in literature as early as the 2nd Century.  It is, of course, a salt and air cured ham and can be raw or cooked, the most popular being the raw variety.

A good little history can be found on:

http://www.academiabarilla.com/italian-recipes/meats-charcuterie/prosciutto-parma-1.aspx

For me, I think I’ll credit Giada De Laurentis with beginning the broadening out and highlighting of prosciutto as a product, for me,  for more common uses in the kitchen.  Giada only came on “the scene” about 11 years ago, so this is fairly recent – I know, and before then, I think my experience with Prosciutto was more or less limited to the Prosciutto and Melon appetizer idea.  That seems kind of funny, considering my heritage.  Anyway, the explosion of the popularity of pork in general and Prosciutto has been accelerating clearly at least since then.

The concept of dried and cured hams is famous throughout Europe – there is a famous one in Spain (Serrano) , of course, but Portugal and France also have their own.  Italy’s products gets the most profile, though and I am supporting this as credible and defendable.    But, here is a little article to read about all of those products.

http://www.hamazing.com/articles/difference-between-jamon-serrano-prosciutto-di-parma-parma-ham-jambon-bayonne-ham-and-presunto-explained/

and here is a good article on “Decoding Your Charcuterie Plate” (they know everything at Huff-Post-Taste)- http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/04/charcuterie-plate-prosciutto_n_2405152.html 

Ahhhh, the eating of Prosciutto – where to begin?  While there are many interpretations and uses of Prosciutto, I think that it is best expressed in the highlighting of the extremes, the balancing off of the sweet and floral with the salty and earthy.  The other day I was going on about the sensory processes in food ingestion and enjoyment (Of Nose and Notes – An Unexpected Enlightenment at Lorena’s Restaurant – on Tuesday) and, I would like to suggest that Prosciutto is the Perfect example of such a sensory experience.  It involves a combination of the subtle but unique fragrance, and an introduction of unique subtle salt and sweet taste and silky textural sensation on the palate, has a unique chew, different from other hams, and, at its best evokes that old adage of “a mouth-watering” anticipation.  .

I love how prosciutto has become an item to be considered from dawn to dusk in the kitchen.  It marries well with just about anything:

fruits: (mostly the floral ones) peaches and other stone fruits, pears, figs, melons, grapes, etc., etc.

cheeses

honeys

wines

and for uses in:

biscuits, scones and muffins

quiches

pizzas

tortas (sweet and savory)

sandwiches, one great one being the Muffaletta

frittatas, omelets and crispy as a sub for bacon in your bacon and eggs

and is commonly found in the form of:

wrapping of other ingredients including, dates, vegetables fruits and meats and poultries; often acting as a casing of sorts

****************************************************************************************************

So here, on this perfectly delightful day, are a few ideas to whet your appetite:

I adore Prosciutto with, guess what, Peaches (surprise)!  This is just a little offshoot of the melon thing, but I think you can adorn a peach with a piece of prosciutto, a dollop of goat cheese and a bit of honey a leaf of fried sage and voila!  A great little appetizer.

Here is a very lovely salad from the Huff-post taste collection:

melon-and-peach-salad-with-prosciutto-and-mozzarella_456X342

And, of course, Prosciutto can stand on its own, very well, thank you very much:

Prosciutto Crisps or Chips

Just slices all alone

I like the idea of the “Prosciutto and Egg Cup”  for breakfast – I think this is a perfect gluten-free Eggs Benedict variation!  Dollop a little Hollandaise over and -ooooo yummy!  I’d do a little spinach with this and top off with a little piece of fried sage – again.  This is a great brunch dish and it marries so well with Champagne!!!!  You can make mini versions and serve on a platter as a “bite”.  Explore and vary!

I also love the prosciutto and blue cheese combination:  the complexity and pungency of the blue cheese, particularly Gorgonzola, is sublime (add pears, if perfect as-is, if not saute).

Here is a good jumping off compendium of recipes:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/05/23/prosciutto-recipes_n_1540764.html

Chicken with ham and cheese is a much fussed with entree, but I like this one particularly:

Chicken Breasts with Fontina and Prosciutto http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Chicken-Breasts-with-Fontina-and-Prosciutto-363989

Here are a couple of more good recipes to try:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Crostini-with-Mushrooms-Prosciutto-and-Blue-Cheese-107462

Michael Chiarello’s Prosciutto Wrapped Figs and Blue Cheese

So, as you go along today, appreciate the pig.  And, separately, these thin little slices of soft and tender, yet slightly leathery perfection.  (Who wrote This Little Piggy Went to Market?  – this is for kids? I’m glad I didn’t have to answer any of those questions.)

 

*photo courtesy MetalSucks.net

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Filed Under: Blog Tagged With: Prosciutto de Parma, Prosciutto de San Danilel

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