Apple Mania and My Favorite Pork Chops with Apples

Everywhere you turn, food writers are talking about the apple crop – and why not? Desserts, Savory Dishes and Condiments??? Not to mention, puff pancakes for breakfast and all the other major breakfast treats like streudels, turnovers, muffins, scones and coffee cakes……. and I’m going to Roseann Tully’s Intermezzo Class next Friday in Boston on Cooking with Fruit – I can’t wait to visit the Intermezzo Test Kitchens!

Yesterday there was a short article in Star Ledger Food Section about apples. It featured an apple and spiced pork pie. I’m not so sure about this……but another one popped up on my Facebook today – with sausage, so, I’ll have to think about this……..

The article reported that more than 2500 varieties of apples are grown in the US. Apple production is “big business” as, if you’ve read Mark Bittman’s great article in the Sunday Times Food Issue, you will see. Don’t miss this article if you have a moment. Of course some of the biggest apple producers are in the mid-west and on the West Coast, but we have some excellent producers in the east as well. The latest issue of Heirloom Gardener also had a great feature on apples. Check this out. This is a great magazine if you are a frustrated or otherwise armchair farmer – you can live vicariously through these lucky people.

It is no secret that heirloom varieties of apples have become of great interest again – just like other fruits and vegetables, but unless you have your own orchard or access to some of the amazing artisan farms (which actually aren’t too far from here – some as close as the Hudson Valley – like Stone Ridge Orchard), you pretty much have to take what is grown by your local farmer or what’s out in the grocery store. This is obviously the best time of year for the freshest of apples – it often pains me to pick them up in the store in May and June, knowing they’ve been cold-stored since last Fall – but, what can you do?

In spite of the cold storage issue, apples are everyone’s favorite healthy snack food and this season’s go-to when cooking and baking. Nothing beats the smell of apples, cinnamon and nutmeg baking in your house (well except maybe Brioche). I have even begun dipping Granny Smiths’ in organic peanut butter (sans sugar) instead of my favorite peanut butter and crackers with soup – my comfort food lunch from childhood.

The other day I mentioned the Tarte Tatin I had at La Grenouille on Saturday – a lovely little treat with a quenelle of, I assume, house-made vanilla ice cream. Who doesn’t love a great apple tart? I’m going to write about the Salted Caramel Tarte Tatin I found (actually it found me) on the cover of Delicious (UK) Magazine very soon – the picture is to die for and if tastes anything like it looks, well, look out!

My favorite apples for pies are either Golden Delicious or Ginger Gold. I love that their flavor profile is a soft mix of apple and pears. And, they release a nicely textured and flavorful juice when cooked and baked. My Mom always used Cortlands but I find them boring, so I’ve moved on. My apple pie recipe is a huge, mound-piled-high version with 10-12 apples per pie, steaming in a cinnamon, nutmeg-sugar bath, inside a great crust. Who can resist? One scoop of Alden’s Vanilla, our new family favorite store-bought vanilla, and it’s happy-time! This is Ryan’s favorite pie. Christin’s is Cherry – my favorite from childhood!

Apple desserts are great – I can’t think of one I don’t like, except for Baked Apples. My Mom loved baked apples and I remember her lovingly nestling these into a baking dish and into the oven often – but I just don’t get them – they always seemed like something was missing! Michele McCormack, my nephew’s wife, gave me the recipe for a great apple torte that she made for Thanksgiving years ago. This is a favorite, too. And, my all-time healthiest apple-based dessert is Ina Garten’s Roasted Pear and Applesauce, sans the sugar – it doesn’t need it! I make this often in the winter. It gives me a great sense of comfort to slide this into the oven in a big LeCreuset , it perfumes the house immediately, and it is the perfect SINLESS dessert (can have a dollop of creme fraiche on top!).

I have to confess that I have never made Apple Butter. But, when a classmate from Pastry School posted hers and said it can be made without sugar, I was “in”. I don’t have a slow cooker yet so I will get one and try this out – will keep you posted. I am thrilled when I hear about condiments without added sugar. This opens up a whole new direction for me.

I love to cook savory dishes with apples as well. My absolute favorite savory apple dish is Earl Peyroux’s Pork Chops with Apples. My friend Barbara introduced me to Earl in the 1970s and I have made this great entree since then. I have worked the sauce recipe a little bit – and it is even better now.

PORK CHOPS WITH APPLES – adapted from Earl Peyroux

4 boneless pork chops – 3/4 – 1″ thick

3 tblsp butter

3 tblsp extra virgin olive oil

freshly ground pepper

1/2 tsp fresh thyme

1/2 cup low sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup dry white wine

3 large golden delicious apples, peeled, cored and sliced in 1/2″ slices

2 tblsp Honeycup brand Mustard

1 tblsp Dijon-style mustard

Heat butter and oil in a heavy bottom skillet over medium high heat. Generously sprinkle pepper over both sides of pork chops.

Sear chops for 3 minutes, turn and sear other side for 3 minutes. Remove chops from pan and discard remaining drippings. Return chops to pan, distribute apple slices all around and add wine, thyme and broth. Cover pan and simmer on low for 15 minutes. Remove chops and apples from pan and cover to keep warm. Reduce broth-wine mixture until it measures about 1/4 cup. Add two mustards, and mix with a spoon or whisk to create an emulsion. Reduce this mixture until it is a thick, caramel-colored sauce. Add any accumulated juices from apples and chops and reduce again to ensure this does not dilute the sauce. Return chops and apples to pan and heat through.