Two questions that I think about when I either eat in or read about great restaurants: First, what does it take to get to the top of the restaurant world – and then, how do you stay on top? What are the characteristics that can keep you there – and more importantly, what are the characteristics that you absolutely must avoid?? In today’s context, what do Daniel Humm, Sirio Maccioni and Craig Shelton have in common?
And second, what defines a great dining experience? This is meant to distinguish between great food and a “fine dining” experience. Great food can be found in a multitude of venues – from food truck, to little sandwich shop, a multitude of great casual restaurants and then, onward and upward to the best of the “fine dining” establishments. To me, a fine dining experience, especially in one of the top venues in the world, should be a study in envelopment – a perfect combination of ambiance, food, company, and occasion – all perfectly orchestrated, but without anything but a whisper of the orchestra in your face. The experience and food speak for themselves – period. Subtle, yet perfect execution. You should be aware of where you are, you should be profoundly affected by the quality and creativity of the food, the service should be attentive but not intrusive and you should be able to fully enjoy your company and all should be enhanced by the environment. That’s my definition, anyway.
Every time I go into a restaurant I am amazed at the choreography which must take place to run such an establishment effectively. I am constantly aware of the possibility of every little potential pitfall and worry that, should I be in charge, I’d be a wreck. People who run these places well deserve such tremendous credit! Well, on to my story – the thread that ties the three.
Yesterday, I read of three storied restaurants with awe – two were articles/reviews in the New York Times Dining Section – about Eleven Madison Park and Le Cirque, and the third was an article in the October New Jersey Monthly about the legendary Craig Shelton and his famed restaurant in New Jersey – The Ryland Inn.
When I opened the Dining section and began to read the article about Eleven Madison Park, I went back two or three time to make sure I was not misreading what was being said. The gist of the article, as far as I am concerned, is that the restaurant’s new format is so focused on explaining and demonstrating, table- side, the context of their food, that the pleasure of the dining experience is totally lost. Pete Wells concludes that his lunch left him with a feeling of “bloat”, literally and figuratively. He walked away “more puzzled than enlightened”. Clamping a meat grinder to your table mid-meal? The meal, thank goodness, was exceptionally well-prepared, but yikes, the “scene” was a disaster – was that review devastating, or what? This restaurant’s reputation is legendary. A lesson – don’t try to re-configure what works well – tweak, and carefully elevate to the next level (this sounds like a tight-rope walk and, yes I think it is), but, don’t attempt to transform it into a food and wine festival-demo (service should recede, not intrude). My opinion – each has its proper place and value – keep them separate.
Next – when I saw the one star review of Le Cirque, I thought, once again, that I must be misreading things. I read, with great disappointment, the story of the demise of the food from one of the great long-standing, and legendarily elegant restaurants in New York. Many currently think that the fine-dining experience in NY is over-rated and “out”. In spite of this, how could Sirio Maccioni and his sons let this happen? I don’t know, but I must chalk it up to how incredibly difficult it is to keep a beacon alight over the long haul. This was truly sad. The descriptions of the food were so hard to “digest” that I put the paper down for awhile just to try to deal with what I had read. Again, Pete Wells: ” The kitchen had stopped reaching for excellence and possibly no longer remembered what that might mean” Yikes, again.
Third, the article on Craig Shelton—- I have long been fascinated with the story of Craig Shelton. He lived in our town, his daughter went to school with my kids, and the story of the Ryland Inn is so entrenched in local culinary legend that my ears perk up whenever I hear someone mention it or their chef. I was not in the habit of going out for $1000 dinners when the Ryland Inn was at its peak (nor am I now, nor, ever will) but I have always wondered what made the place so amazing. Years have gone by and I have read little bits here and there and I have wondered what pieces of the story were left out. What was the real story? So, when I picked up the copy of October’s New Jersey Monthly and saw a headline about Craig Shelton, I was hopeful for answers to a lot of my questions. I wondered if he went off the rails (literally and figuratively), I wondered if his misfortunes were some cruel, predestined tragedy. I wondered if he was as great a chef as everyone said. I wondered why he hadn’t come back earlier in a similar venue. I wondered why he hadn’t gotten it together. I wondered how he felt about someone else re-inventing his “baby”. Goodness knows, New Jersey could always use an ultra-charming, great food, “country” venue. I absolutely love this model – the destination restaurant, perfectly executed – so hard to maintain in this economic model. Upon digesting the story of his genius and ability to mentor, I came away hoping he will execute his model again someday very soon.
The article is very detailed and informative. I won’t bore you with the details – you can read them for yourself, but suffice it to say that at the end of this day I have learned another serious lesson about the restaurant business. Bottom line is – even the best management, culinary talent, reputation, venue and timing in the ever-fickle dining scene is fraught with incredible pitfalls. How could a place like EMP get so off base as to think that diners would enjoy a parade of props and shows during their $195, four hour luncheon (who wants to go to lunch for 4 hours anyway?). More importantly, have they lost sight of the meaning of “pleasurable dining experience”? How could the management of Le Cirque and Sirio Maccioni and family allow their food to get to the point that even their chocolate souffle is “floury and crumbly” and their “roast chicken tastes like roast chicken did in american restaurants 30 years ago”, and their Dover Sole – all signature menu items, lack conviction? And, how could Craig Shelton, contemporary of Eric Ripert, and former sous-chef at David Bouley, be beset with such tragedy in what the article calls “the perfect storm” and become derailed for so long – 5 years – before struggling back to take the reins at a waterfront “diner” in Jersey City? It does sound like his long road to “re-set” has been a productive one for him.
For me, all of this illustrates the challenges and great luck involved in surviving in the fickle food world, especially on this level. It’s so easy to be on the “dining side “of this equation and not on the production side – it’s easy to walk into a restaurant, have a nice dinner, pay the bill and take it all for granted. I have unlimited respect for the people who attempt this feat, to conceive, design and open and then execute day after day after day. Sitting here musing from my arm-chair “typewriter” is incredibly easy – even embarrassingly so – but it’s what I think about and am fascinated by – the “real” world in the food world. Wow – a lot of people have a lot of guts and passion. Kudos to you and Godspeed – especially in the New York metropolitan scene!
It’s still Summer in the Garden – for a little while longer:
a “huge” guest in my garden – yikes – is he dangerous?