Can it be that we are already at the first of August? I began this blog in earnest in March, after fits and starts and a steep learning curve with some technological issues. So today, after about four months at this, I sit here with mixed emotions.
For sure, childhood, and after-childhoods evocations of August include either the dread or the delight of anticipating the return to school. For me, those are very positive memories – I always loved the preparation for school’s opening and all it involved – anticipating the new dynamic of old and new friends, new clothes, including those ubiquitous Bass tassel loafers (oh yes, I am that old, and I still love the thought of them!), woolen knee sox and woolen plaid skirts with cabled shetland pullovers, school supplies, new book covers, who are my teachers going to be, whose homeroom was I going to be in, crushes on football captains. That was so much fun and I miss those days of preppy outfits, football, basketball and baseball games to go to and my own athletic pursuits as well. Somehow, I feel I came up in the most lucky of time slots, just innocence and fun and gingerly sidestepping the turmoil of the late 60s and the Vietnam era – somehow I was too busy to get into the downer of all of that – the most threatening of things was to tape up a Jimmy Hendrix poster in my bedroom screaming, “Are You Experienced?” , a claim which nearly caused my poor Mom to disintegrate with fears and imagination. I smile at that now as my mindset was way too purposeful and forward-thinking – the most stupid thing to do was over-indulge in some contraband Boone’s Farm Apple Wine for a couple of years and cruise right through into the legal 18 year-old drinking age. One could not get into too much trouble when one had 3 part time jobs during high school. But, I digress.
August brings along with it a distinctly different body of air – I noticed it this morning, a little more damp and clammy, a certain early morning eeriness that, once September’s clear, dryer days arrive, seems to dissipate. Suffice it to say, July has its own distinct aura, and August its own, as well.
Turning the page on the food calendar, things change from July to August much more subtly, as the harvest season is just beginning its upward swing to peak. Tomatoes, peaches, zucchini, eggplants, peppers, beans, greens, herbs, etc are jamming the markets. Farmer’s Markets are in their glory. In fact, we are barely at mid-Summer – actually week 6 of 13 – but, somehow it seems later than that! Today the cicadas are at high pitch and the air is laden and dense. My flowers are overgrown and somewhat tired and in need of a good haircut. Some of my hydrangeas, due to July’s scorching, are pre-bleached and fall-like – but not the Limelights and Pee Gees or Oak Leafs. Rain is in the air again and it seems like Mother Nature has turned a page from July’s drought, at least right here. That’s a relief – a break from watering!
I am way behind in my reading – still going through the Summer issues of Edible and have a stack of magazines and books looming. On recommendation from a Roseann Tully post, I am reading Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones and Butter. I am loving her reminiscing about Lambertville, a town I spend a lot of time in on Winter weekends. Anyone who thinks being a chef in New York is glamorous stuff should read this book.
I was remiss in commenting on last Wednesday’s NYT Dining Section. I was delighted to see an entire page featuring Peach Shortcake and Caprese Salads – heaven sent and perfectly timely. I guess I have spent a lot of time over the last week thinking about Melissa Clark’s Peach Shortcake presentation. The photo is lovely and the idea enticing, but I have had a couple of things gnawing at me about this article and recipe.
First, Melissa opens with the comment that shortcakes have a distinct advantage over pies and cobblers because the fruit can be raw, stays plumper and more intact. This reminds me of her comments in the end of June about tarts being staid, too predictable, and dull. I guess I, once again, disagree with her, preferring to believe each of these dessert items have their own place in the repertoire – none more or less evocative than the other…just different. I love them all for what they are – I guess we are not on the same page when it comes to fruit desserts.
Back to the shortcake — how would you cut and serve this finished product practically? Seeing the picture, each of those shortcakes – top and bottom, look to be about 3/4 to 1″ thick. I can’t figure out, even with the best of serrated knives, how you would slice through that shortcake, which is essentially a thick cookie-mass, and then through the cream and peaches and then the bottom shortcake without making a “squashed” mess. (Should this be named “Shortcake Mess” after the famous Eton Mess?) I don’t know about this – she does not comment about serving issues, but I guess this just makes me feel that a brown sugar sponge or angel food cake (such as the amazing one we made in Pastry School) would be better. I certainly understand the draw of the shortcake, but I don’t get the execution. Plating this would be a visual disaster, though I am sure it tastes great!
How would you cut and serve this?
As you have seen on this blog, the caprese ingredients work for me in a number of presentations and menu-points, so I will heartily agree with David Tanis’ take here.
In today’s Times, I am a-ok with her Flank Steak recipe but I am not onboard with Cathy Barrow’s Blueberry Pie Filling recipe – I am a no-no when it comes to using cornstarch as a thickener. I think it turns everything to cloying “gook”. That is a fine culinary term. I prefer tapioca, arrowroot or just a little flour – or as I saw Jacques Pepin last night – just a little potato starch. I would have to experiment with the potato starch in a sweet recipe to make sure it was benign enough but tapioca is my go-to for fruit pies.
I loved Marian Burros’ article on Jose Andres’ cookbook obsession and collections – we are kindred spirits in this regard, but my collection doesn’t have anywhere near the provenance his does. They mention cataloging his collection – do I need to do that?
The Star Ledger comes through this week with the Bernards Inn’s Caprese Cocktail. With basil-infused vodka, fresh crushed tomatoes, reduced balsamic, and a mozzarella ball – how can you go wrong??? This is a pumped-up Bloody Mary for Summertime! I can just drive down the road and sample these!!!!!
Melon season is upon us big-time. Yesterday, the array of melons in Whole Foods was amazing. I brought home a fully ripe Honey Dew and it was perfect. Cool, juicy, refreshing as can be! I basically ate the entire thing in two days! I am headed over to look for another one.
Tonight I am taking advantage of abundant New Jersey eggplant and making my favorite quick Baked Eggplant Parmigiana – adapted from Taste of Italia – December 2010. See Recipes. This is great to try on a rainy evening – and I am out of propane!
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My phlox are great this year!
Endless Summer’s last stand?
Another crop coming along!